If you’ve ever had questions about the difference between cuts of stones, consider this your beginners guide. Few details matter as much as the cut of a stone. The cut shows how light dances through the piece, how much brilliance it radiates, and, most importantly, how the piece makes you feel when wearing it. Carat and clarity are more talked about, but the cut is what gives a ring personality and uniqueness.
There are about 10-12 primary cuts of gemstones that are widely recognized. There are many variations and specialty cuts beyond that, however, we will be focusing on: emerald, round, oval, pear, marquise, and princess cuts.
Emerald Cut
This style gives an elevated, vintage feel and is popular with color stones. To remember an emerald cut, think of a hall of mirrors. These stones are long, rectangular and have long step facets that create the hall of mirrors effect. A facet is the flat, polished surface that reflects light in the gemstone. In emerald cuts, the facets are “step facets,” meaning they are long and rectangular, like a staircase.
Round Brilliant Cut
Round cut, on the other hand, is the most familiar and classic cut for diamonds. This style has 57-58 facets that reflect the most light which creates unmatched brilliance. The facets on round cuts are triangular and kite shaped, differing from the rectangular shape of the emerald cut. This cut is perfect for someone who wants something traditional and glamorous.
Oval Cut
Similar to a round cut, an oval cut is elongated with the same style and amount of facets. The modern shape creates something called the “bowtie effect,” the refracting like creates a darker center in the shape of a bowtie. The oval also slims the fingers while making the stone look fuller. A second favorite, oval is perfect to show off colored stones and how the light can beautifully reflect from various angles.
Pear Cut
Also known as the teardrop, pear cut stones have a rounded edge opposite a single point. It’s a combination of the round and marquise cuts. Symmetry is important for this stone due to its fancy shape. If the stone is not shaped or placed correctly, it will be noticeable. There’s no right way to wear a pear cut stone. Wearing the stone with the point away is the more traditional way while having the stone pointed towards you gives a more modern feel.
Marquise Cut
Marquise cut stones have a distinctive design with 2 pointed ends and 58 facets. It is considered a romantic shape due to its origin of King Louis XV commissioning a diamond to be cut in the shape of his mistress’s lips. Similar to the oval shape, the elegance of a marquise also elongates the finger. The ideal marquise proportion has a length that is double the width.
Princess Cut
Princess cut stones are square shaped and a great alternative to the round cut. Its main allure is structure. The faceting pattern increases reflection while hiding imperfections. Additionally, the larger surface area creates the illusion of a bigger stone. This is another cut style that is great for colored stones, not just diamonds.